We’ve read a lot positive reviews of Budapest recently so we decided to go and check it out. Not that we haven’t been to our capital city a dozen times but this time we wanted to pretend that we were enthusiastic foreigners who wanted to squeeze as much as possible into a single day and take as many photos as our gadgets allow us. We started off in the underground parking garage of a largish mall, Corso Plaza, which is in located in one of the least prestigious neighborhood of the capital, District 8. In spite of its lousy reputation the place was quite decent, the mall was as good as any average shopping center in the continent. Except for the prices, because Hungary is dirt cheap compared with most capital cities in Europe. For foreigners of course, due to the favorable exchange rates and low salaries. So if you are a thrifty traveler this is your place.
Corso Plaza – an ordinary mall in District 8
We then walked to a nearby underground station and purchased a single ticket for 350 Forints. We took the train to Deák Square Station, got off then stopped discuss which exit we should take. After standing there for a couple of seconds, a ticket inspector came and asked – in English because we were holding an English language guide book – if he could help and directed us towards Erzsébet Square exit (we were headed for the Chain Bridge). Overall, the underground is OK, even lousy map readers can figure out where to get off, because there are huge and detailed maps at every station. Staff was surprisingly helpful and communicative despite their bad reputation. (I’ve just heard that a woman – a doctor on her way to her dying grandfather – was arrested because she was accused of using a fake pass. She was released after showing the receipt she got when she purchased it in a legit kiosk.)
Anyway, underground is safe to use, but be careful of pickpockets and keep the receipt if you buy a ticket. You can buy a One Day Travelcard or other budget tickets if you want to travel more.
It’s quite simple to become the happiest tube rider
When you exit at Erzsébet Square you will see the miniature version of the London Eye. Prices are pretty steep, though. At least for Hungarians. We were reluctant to pay almost 5000 forints for two tickets so we decided to ignore the bird’s eye view and continue our walking tour.
The Wheel
Then we run into another London Look. The color of the booth is different but with a little photoshop work we could pass it for a typical London sightseeing snapshot.
Get the London Look
Chain Bridge is just a stone’s throw away, so we hurried up.
Chain Bridge
The bridge was one of the projects of the Greatest Hungarian, István Széchenyi, a nobleman, politician, writer, philantropist in the 19th century. Too bad he ended up in an insane asylum not long after the fall of the Revolution of 1848. (Just for the record: he supported the revolution not the ancient regime.) He allegedly commited suicide in 1860. Well, unfortunately many Hungarian political figures have an unhappy ending, the Greatest Hungarian is no exception.
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According to urban legend, the sculptor of the Chain Bridge lions suffered similar faith. He is said to have killed himself after the public criticized his work accusing him of making tongueless lions.
But no, János Marschalkó did not jump off the bridge and the lions do have tongues. Although you are advised against checking this fact yourself.
The magnificent Parliament seen from the Chain Bridge
The Chain Bridge from the Castle
Once you’ve crossed the Bridge you are all set. You can either take the Funicular
or walk up the Király Lépcső (King’s Stairs) if you keep right at the roundabout then cross the road to the stairs.
If you keep left at the rounabout you can reach the Várkert Bazár which is one of the recently restored parts of the Castle Hill with more spectacular stairs.
Várkert Bazár
The Castle District has plenty of landmarks and photo spots. One of the most attractive features of the Castle is the breathtaking view of the River Danube with the 14 bridges across it and Pest (Budapest was originally two towns: Buda and Pest before the unification in 1873) with its marvellous riverside Gothic-Revival Parliament. In the Castle there are some Medieval details but some of the very old looking buildings date back to the 19th century, like the number one lookout terrace, Fisherman’s Bastion.
Fisherman’s Bastion – there’s a fee if you want to go to the upper balcony but to most of it admission is free
View from Fisherman’s Bastion
If you are not planning to spend a lot of time here you should focus on the outdoor attractions, you should not and cannot miss Matthias C Photogenic Matthias Church
There is a detailed map of the sights not far from the church.
The map helps you decide what you want to see
There are some surprising accessories like a fiddler on the wall, a Trabant asking for donations, a guard wearing sunglasses or the occasional vintage car.
Will be spent on maintenance
Not the London Look; a guard at the President’s Residence
The Fiddler has no fear of heights
Attention to detail is the secret to cathedral building – a beautifully carved entrance to Matthias Church
It’s easy to find a great background to a portrait
Because the weather was ideal for sightseeing, we did not visit the museums, but if it’d been rainy or extremely cold we would have opted for the Hungarian National Gallery, which has an impressive collection, mainly paintings.
We had time for one more attraction. After spending the best part of the day at the castle we headed for Andrássy Avenue, the local Champs-Élysées, a busy road lined with luxury brands, embassies, villas, the Opera House, attractive cafes and restaurants. We hit the beautiful bookshop located in the the building of the Párizsi Nagyáruház and browsed the foreign language section. Next, we went to the glamorous Bookcafe where we sipped excellent coffee while reading the books we’d just bought in the shop. What else do booklovers need?
Párizsi Nagyáruház
(Grand Paris Department Store) – Andrássy Avenue
Easily one of the most attractive bookshops in town
Bookcafe in the Lotz Room
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